Men’s fashion shows flooded Paris and Milan and ended only last night.
And although F’rows made headlines – Timothée Chalamet in Loewe! Kylie Jenner in Margiela! David Beckham in Dior! – there was no shortage of inspiration to draw from the catwalk. And best of all, you may already have some AW23 staples in your closet.
Here are the best takeaways to look chic this year, boys:
The motorcyclist relaxes
You’ve got your old racing leather jacket – but do you have matching pants? In Milan, Gucci released a butter-smooth, simple black pair with bold knee pads, worn with a fitted jacket and subtle slip-on flaps. In Marine Serre, they were combined with orange and snake accents. Seoul-based brand Juun.J showed off a totally biker-inspired collection that included ripped leather pants and classic denim biker pants, while DSquared2 added a shot in blue and red for a Formula 1-style speed demon.
Scottish textiles have been the mainstay of European collections, led by Glasgow designer Charles Jeffrey, who held his first Loverboy show in Milan this season. His signature blue and red plaid was dressed in rugby shirts, striped cardigans and yellow face paint. Etro’s recently appointed creative director, Marco de Vincenzo, designed elegant Savile Row-style suits, and Kenzo designer Nigo offered a similarly elegant tartan: plaid blazers with triple buttons, trousers and coats dressed with plaid shirts and ties. But it was KidSuper, who guest-designed for Louis Vutton instead of Virgil Abloh’s permanent replacement, who had the most fun splitting the trippy check.
It may not be a style for everyone, but this season’s runways could not miss the open-legged styling. At JW Anderson’s Milan show, bare-legged models wearing sheepskin underwear and sheepskin jackets outnumbered these sports pants. Elsewhere, JordanLuca collaborated with JD Sports favorite Lonsdale to create white knickers that were layered under a butterfly print dress. The craze also swept Paris, Lazoschmidl, which created tight black pants worn with hoodies and floral raincoats, and Ludovic de Saint Sernin, where underwear with the logo was visible through the white mesh, emphasizing the figure of the dress. Again something for the braver souls.
They didn’t win every collection, but Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons bet on pointy collars at the Prada show in Milan. And if Miuccia and Raf are trend-setting, they invariably hit the money. Pradas were removable in a variety of pop shades with contrast mohair panels. There, the versatility was noticeable: tucked into boxed blazers, knee-length coats, and comfy cardigans. How much will these slip-on collars cost? Such a question later circulated on the Internet. Consensus – around £500. If that seems tearful, head to your nearest thrift store for an endless supply of large collared shirts. If you feel like staying true to Prada style, just reach for the scissors.
Among the more predictable waves of navy blue and camel menswear staples, a touch of glitz stands out. Perhaps the most surprising thing this season was the disco balls and sequin tank tops that came out. One of Gucci’s final looks set the tone – a gleaming silver tank top dressed in dirty jeans, monogrammed green cowboy boots and a blue cap. Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s mesh, crystal-encrusted style had a more club vibe from Dalston Superstore, while Dolce and Gabbana made a black tie version: a sequined polo vest with matching flowy trousers. Maybe one for Timothée Chalamet this awards season?
In the most acclaimed homes, huge, draped blankets enveloped some of the best looks. Fendi’s opening gray outfit consisted of a cashmere scarf with a geometric pattern, wrapped asymmetrically around the body in a tunic style. Giorgio Armani’s gray and navy herringbone weave bedspread came with a fluffy fur collar, while Paul Smith’s was a full cape that turned heads: Maroon, orange and brown patches covered a nearly floor-length poncho, doubled with a wide, fitted scarf with overprint. Not a bad option to deal with the city’s subarctic temperatures in January.