“Now that the Globes are back, let’s have fun,” said stylist Jennifer Austin.
The fashion world seems ready for the first big moment of the year on the red carpet when the awards show returns on Tuesday. And while there may be a slight shadow over the carpet, the industry is looking to the future.
“The progress they’ve made and the changes they’ve made have been good,” continued Austin of the Hollywood Foreign Press Association. She dresses Angela Bassett, nominated for Best Supporting Actress in a Motion Picture for her portrayal of Queen Ramonda in Black Panther: Wakanda Forever. Still, she added: “We still have a long way to go.”
After objecting to operating standards and lack of diversity (previously no black members), the HFPA held a private ceremony in 2022 with no stars and no carpet. Some boycotted the show and even gave away their Golden Globes, and until recently it was unclear who would be appearing this year. Turns out Hollywood seems ready to move on. The presenters will include many A-listers – Ana de Armas, Billy Porter, Tracy Morgan, Jamie Lee Curtis, Quentin Tarantino and Natasha Lyonne. Several names are also expected to hit the headlines, including Rihanna and Selena Gomez.
This comes after the organization announced reform plans and admitted 103 new voters (consisting of 22.3% Hispanic, 13.6% Black, 11.7% Asian, 10.7% Middle Eastern and 41.7% White , with 58.3% identifying as “ethnically diverse”). .
“It’s a time of change,” said stylist Cristina Ehrlich, who dresses Lyonne. “Even though the world is in a very difficult time right now, fashion’s job is to deliver beauty, optimism, glamour, and fantasy.”
For top stylists, preparations for the upcoming show are no different than in previous years. Firstly, it was always a bit hectic and rushed because of the time, coming days after the Christmas break.
“It’s weird because Christmas always comes so fast,” said Rose Forde, stylist for Emma D’Arcy, who was nominated for an Outstanding TV Actress in a Drama Series for House of the Dragon. “The Globes is historically, from a styling point of view, always a little tricky.”
“Because it’s so early, I have to schedule it early,” said Kate Young, who dresses Gomez, Margot Robbie and Michelle Williams – all nominees. “It’s something that needs to be planned before the holidays.”
Right now, international brands know they “have a lot of their stuff ready to sell in New York or Los Angeles,” said Ilaria Urbinati, who also dresses all the nominees – Donald Glover, Adam Scott, Barry Keoghan, Damien Chazelle and Diego Calva . .
Shipping issues, however, were a new challenge; most companies are now unreliable and costs have skyrocketed, making it difficult to obtain samples.
“We had to switch to Worldnet [International] instead of FedEx or UPS… They deliver packages by hand, which is a lot more money,” said Urbinati. “Ordinary shipping companies have become completely unreliable since COVID-19. We’ve lost more items to shipping this year than at any other time in my career.”
“You have to be a little more selective,” Austin said of getting samples because of the cost.
This year at the Globes, Bassett will star in “something simple but different,” Austin revealed. “It will be a different silhouette for her. This is the accumulation. We’re all getting ready for the Oscars. You must have an attack plan. You start high, you continue high, but your crescendo is the Oscars.
How do the Globes compare to today’s other giveaways?
“With Globes, it’s formal,” said Young. “It’s very formal. It’s more than a premiere, maybe less than the Oscars or Cannes.”
“For me, Globes is huge,” said Urbinati. “The Golden Globes and the Oscars are the two biggest. Let’s put it this way, if I have a guy who goes to all these Globes, Critics, SAGs, Oscars, etc., I’ll always keep my two best outfits for the Globes and Oscars because it’s just to get the most exposure.”
The main change on the red carpet, as the stylists repeated, is how much the styling has become overdone – apparently to attract attention.
“Honestly, I think all the ceremonies have gone a little crazy over the last few years,” Forde said. “Recently there has been more and more of a fight for space, a fight for coverage and a fight for attention. There are so many people trying to say so many different things and having so many fashion moments. I’ve always tried, in every ceremony I work on, to make my clients look just cool and relevant to each other … but I’m not going to go to the biggest fashion moment either, unless there’s real honesty behind it.”
When it comes to menswear, there are fewer rules to break on the rug now, Urbinati said: “It’s more of a challenge but also fun to try to figure out how to make something that feels special, surprising and special in a world where everyone wears crazy s -t.”
By showcasing designers who are feeling in the moment, stylists strive to provide a look that is natural to the evolution of their clients’ personal style and careers, so there’s a bit of a storytelling involved.
“I’d be curious to see, from a styling point of view, what people are going to do,” Forde said. “Are people really going to push? Will they be a little more restrained this time?
It’s a guessing game.
“Looking at the people who are nominated going down the list, whether we’re looking at Viola Davis, Ana de Armas, Margot Robbie, Michelle Yeoh, I can pretty much say she’ll be wearing one brand or another,” said Ehrlich of nominees for Best Actress, referring to the relationship that brands have with talent.
Rumored to be released from her Chanel contract, Robbie recently wears Celine, Bottega Veneta and Alaïa. The rising star Armas wore an Oscar de la Renta dress for an evening appearance on Jimmy Fallon’s show, but opted for a Louis Vuitton at the Governors Awards. Meanwhile, Davis, dressed by Elizabeth Stewart, donned a Christopher John Rogers gown to the ceremony and was recently photographed wearing a bespoke Tory Burch. Yeoh, who will be dressed by Jordan Johnson, made a splash on the cover of Time Magazine’s 2022 Icon of the Year and wore Schiaparelli on Thursday night at the Palm Springs International Film Festival.
“I think there will be people who really go out and have deep cleavage and deep lines in the back, and then I hope because I think it’s time we see a little more of the old Hollywood classic,” added Ehrlich.