After a sleepy, Covid-induced two years of virtual shows, falling sales and comfortable garments, the fashion industry has made an amazing comeback in 2022.
Fashion week was in full swing, as big and bustling as ever, with runway shows taking place in every major city. At Dior, Kim Jones presented a show for history books beneath the Egyptian Pyramids of Giza; Saint Laurent took us to the Moroccan desert; while Gucci took us to an Apulian fortress and Chanel to Dakar.
The events were plentiful, the destinations were far and wide, and great people swarmed from event to event – and in some cases, from one fashion house to another. With massive changes at Gucci, Burberry, Raf Simons and Ann Demeulemeester, 2022 kept fashion editors on the alert and rumors in constant flux.
Last year’s rush of the most important fashion news left us with a lot of unanswered questions. The new year will bring not only answers, but also new exhibitions, books, lectures, parties and, in general, lots of fashion to look forward to. Here is our cheat sheet for the coming year.
Dates for your diary
Get ready, because the first set of shows is fast approaching. The AW23 menswear collection kicks off this Friday starting January 13 in Milan from Gucci (the menswear shows in London were combined with womenswear in February) before heading to Paris on Tuesday the 17th and ending with the Margiela 22 show. You can see full schedule of milan here and the Paris schedule here.
If you thought there would be a hiatus after 10 consecutive days of screenings, you were wrong. Extend the dates in hotels, because right after the men’s shows comes fashion. If the final season is to pass, on January 23, we can expect an influx of high-end stars, strolling through the streets of Paris in the name of Haute Couture. Kim K, Dua Lipa and Nicole Kidman not only sat in the front row last July, but also walked the runway.
The Fédération de la Haute Couture hasn’t announced the full schedule yet, but if there’s one show you’re looking out for, let it be Jean Paul Gaultier – who recruited Colombian-born French designer Haider Ackermann to design the AW23 couture collection this season. In more recent news, Mugler announced his return to the runway on the last day of fashion week – making it Mugler’s first runway in three years.
When Fashion Week ends on January 26, you have exactly 15 days until the New York ready-to-wear shows start on February 10. Unless, of course, you plan to go to Copenhagen Fashion Week which takes place between Paris Haute Couture Week and New York Fashion Week, from January 31 to February 3. If you have the stamina, Copenhagen is well worth a visit and exceeds expectations every season – watch out for Stine Goya and Baum und Pferdgarten on February 1 and Holzweiler and Ganni on February 2.
Then the big players will come. New York Fashion Week AW23, then London Fashion Week (February 17), Milan Fashion Week (February 21), then Paris Fashion Week (February 27). The season ends on March 7.
Then there are the red carpets. If the performances weren’t enough to keep you busy for the next three months, don’t worry, there are also the Golden Globes (January 10), Grammys (February 5), Brits (February 11), BAFTAs (February 19) and Oscars (March 12 ).
According to tradition and held on the first Monday of May, this year’s MET Gala is to honor the German fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld, who died in 2019.
The last months of 2022 brought a number of significant fashion news – but none was as devastating for the British as the death of Vivienne Weswood, the queen of British fashion, who died on December 29.
In the run-up to Christmas, Raf Simons announced he was shutting down his beloved and highly coveted nakesame label; Balenciaga apologized for its controversial campaign; Alessandro Michele announced he was leaving Gucci as creative director after seven years; In addition, the Belgian brand Ann Demeulemeester gained a new creative director, Ludovic de Saint Sernin.
These announcements have left us with question marks and rumors – plenty. What next for Raf Simons? The designer is co-creative director of Prada (together with Miuccia Prada). Is his decision to devote more time to the Italian brand, or is it due to something else? Could there be something entirely new on the cards for Simons in 2023?
Elsewhere: what does Balenciaga’s future look like now and how will the brand be reborn? Will Alessandro Michele take over the reins of the next fashion house – or will the designer be tempted to start his own label? Plus the question that everyone is dying to know: who will replace Michele at Gucci? And what does Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s version of Ann Demeulemeester look like?
Ann Demeulemeester wasn’t the only label to receive a new creative director in 2022. In September, it was announced that Riccardo Tisci would be stepping down as creative director at Burberry after five years, with former Bottega Veneta creative director Daniel Lee taking over the role of Tisci. . We’ll see what Daniel Lee’s Burberry looks like next month during the London shows in February.
A few days before the Burberry news, it was announced that Nina Ricci would undergo a makeover à la Harris Reed with the British-American designer as creative director as well as head of his eponymous London brand. Meanwhile, Louis Vuitton has yet to announce who will replace the late Virgil Abloh as creative director, with Martine Rose, Grace Wales Bonner and Telfar Clemens among the rumors.
Book, order in advance and plan your outfits…
Italian fashion icon Giorgio Armani will publish his book next month Per Love, an autobiographical text depicting his youth, career and path to becoming one of the most famous designers in the world. Based on his official autobiography (2015), the book has been updated and rewritten. You can order it here.
In September, V&A will present its most important fashion exhibition of the year: Gabrielle Chanel, Fashion Manifesto. The exhibition, which opened on September 16, is the first in the UK to be devoted solely to the work of a French fashion designer. Find more information here.
Hit movies mean hit fashion. Greta Gerwig’s Barbie coming to us in July is one of the most anticipated movies of 2023 and has already started the viral TikTok “Barbiecore” trend. People may not be aware that Gerwig hired costume designer Jacqueline Durran to work on the film. One of the most famous contemporary costume designers, Durran is known for her impeccable work on films such as Anna Karenina (2012), Atonement (2007), and previously worked with Gerwig on Little Women (2019). Barbie is definitely a new direction for Durran – we’ll soon see if life in plastic really looks fantastic.
Speaking of the costume designers, the brains behind the costumes in The Devil Wears Prada, and Carrie Bradshaw’s legendary wardrobe in Sex and the City, Patricia Field brings us an autobiography. The book, which will be released next month, is titled A stalemate in the city: my life with fashion, style and breaking all the rules and returns to his club days at Studio 54 to create some of the most iconic TV looks of all time. You can pre-order it here.
Another item to read: In March, World of Interiors editor-in-chief Hamish Bowles will add another book to his list. India in Fashion: The Influence of Indian Clothing and Textiles on the Fashionable Imagination explore the history of traditional Indian dress and its profound influence on European and American fashion. Pre-order here.
If you don’t feel like reading and more like partying, Christopher Kane has something for you. In April, fashion designer Christopher Kane and the LGBTQ+ collective Sink pink team up for More Joy Disco – a night of fashion debauchery at the newly renovated KOKO Camden. The full line-up of DJs and dancers is yet to be announced, get your tickets here.
Elsewhere, two centuries are worth noting: famed American fashion photographer Richard Avedon would have turned 100 this year, while Disney is throwing a feast to celebrate its 100th anniversary and collaborations with companies such as Coach, Givenchy, Adidas and Pandora.